Lord of the R.....Vs
I know, I know…soooo overdue in writing this, but life has been hectic. The collage of photos gives a pretty good sampling of the things I did while touring the South Island of New Zealand in an RV (Click on it to get an enlarged version!). This trip was the one that I planned for the group, so I was naturally a bit apprehensive about the whole thing and worried about making everything work out well. But let's back up one step...Saturday night, most of us had tickets to the All Blacks vs. Wallabies (Australia) Rugby game. I was so excited about going, but unfortunately, room 322 at the Railway Campus was stricken with the sinus infection/ stomach flu from hell. The first photo was taken when we were supposed to be going to the game. We mustered up the energy to hold up the tickets, smile, take the picture, and then go back to bed.
The next morning, we were scheduled to head to the airport and fly into Christchurch on the South Island. Becca and I managed to drug ourselves well enough that we were feeling okay to fly, but sadly, our darling Sass could barely move from her bed. We left her to get better hoping she might make it down later in the week. The flight to Christchurch was gorgeous: mountains EVERYWHERE. People? Couldn’t find them. From the air you get a pretty good idea just how few people live in this country. It’s a grand total of about five million. A little over 1 million of which live in Auckland.

When we arrived in Christchurch, we took a shuttle to the hostel. We then set out to check out the city. We spent the whole day walking around outdoor marketplaces (where I bought a Fair Isle sweater with kiwis and silver ferns on it!!), sight-seeing, and doing touristy things. The next photo in the collage shows a cherry tree blooming as it’s starting to be Spring down here. The following photo is where all 7 girls went “punting on the Avon.” This was when one poor man and his gondola got to push us up and down a river in a quaint little boat. The picture in the lower right is of me in the botanical gardens frolicking in the daffodils. The public gardens here are the third largest in a city in the world (after New York and London): HUGE! That night we went out to dinner at a place called Dux deLux (thanks Joe for the recommendation!) where we ate amazing food and home-brewed beers.
The next morning, the BU group broke up into a few factions. Eight of us set out in two RVs (this was of course after a major mishap with getting the proper RVs, but moral of the story they gave us our money back for a half-day rental). We drove north toward a town called Kaikoura which is the home to gorgeous snow-capped mountains, whales, seals, and other sea-life. Driving wasn’t too bad, surprisingly. The RVs were Mercedes Benzs and we named them Hans and Heidi, the mountain warriors. Don’t get me wrong, they’re big vehicles (sleeping space for 6, equipped with a microwave, fridge, stove, sink, shower, cupboards, tables, etc) but once on the open road, you almost can convince yourself you’re driving normally. The next pictures in the collage are from Kaikoura. You can see Hans the trusty RV, a whole group shot taken on the beach, Betsy giddy in front of the mountains, a fluffy amazing sheep, a seal on the rocks stretching his neck, and the sunset as we drove out of the little town.
After Kaikoura, we drove on to Blenheim in the heart of New Zealand wine country. We stopped for dinner in town (which started becoming some of the best parts of the trip) and then ventured off to a discreet location off the road to sleep for the night. The beds were surprisingly comfortable and we all slept soundly until the next morning. We woke up bright and early to begin wine tasting at 9:30am. The area is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, but we tasted all sorts of things: Champagne, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Merlot blends, and many others. (The pic is of Anya surveying the options at Cloudy Bay) After wine tasting we drove up to the little town of Picton which is where the inter-island ferry docks. The town was quaint with flowers everywhere and cute store fronts (see the pic). On our way out of town via the scenic route, the most gorgeous rainbow came out and spanned the entire town. Thank goodness I had my camera with me as always because it only lasted for about 15 seconds, but look at that picture! The “scenic road” was in fact scenic, but was also the windiest and most frightening road I have ever driven…well until later in the trip that is.
We then drove on to the town of Greymouth because there wasn’t much on the North-Western Coast of the Island for us to check out. By the time we got to this larger dot on the map, we were all starving. There were only two restaurants open in town and one was closing, which left one option. It was a “saloon” type establishment that was trying to mimic the American West. Pictures of movie stars and random other paraphernalia lined the walls. As it turns out, the place sucks. We all had the WORST meals of our lives. Anya and I split a rack of ribs and we didn’t eat a single one and the BBQ sauce was even too foul to dip the fries into. After complaining and an obscenely long wait we paid and left the town. This was of course the night that it starts to downpour as we are trying to get to an RV site for power hook-up and showers. Then, night construction prevents us from getting to our destination about 1km from it. We turn around and drive back to Greymouth to another RV site which is of course closed now. ARGH! We decide to forego the showers and to find a “picnic spot.” These so-called picnic spots became our favorite “freedom-camping” destinations. After a long day of driving, and no dinner, we all fell asleep generally disgruntle.
The next morning, in better spirits, we headed off to Fox Glacier. Things were certainly looking up. When we got to town we signed up to hike the glacier. We then went to a FANTASTIC restaurant with amazing burgers, fries, and hot chocolates. Ignoring that we were over-stuffed, we met our guide and took a bus to the base of the glacier. The view was absolutely breathtaking (note Becca and the view in the pics). Once we hiked to the ice, we strapped on crampons and climbed on and through the glacier (see my picture!). Once we got to the top we took plenty of “This is BU, this could be you” pictures. After receiving our certificates of completion from our trusty guide, Craig, we went back to the awesome restaurant and enjoyed a cider and chocolate desserts. Once again, it was time to hit the road. We made reservations at an RV site in Haast and made it in time to check in. You have never seen 8 people happier to shower...have I mentioned we have yet to bathe on this trip? There was even internet access, TV, and a full size kitchen there.
Bright and early, we enjoyed an unbelievable drive to Queenstown. This is a region where a large portion of the Lord of the Rings films was made. I have never seen them myself, but can only guarantee that there is no way that they could capture the kind of beauty I found myself driving through. We stopped on the side of the road a number of times for group photo-ops: lakes, mountains, snow, and rivers all around us. When we got to Queenstown, we took a Gondola to the top of the mountain and went luging. I was in seventh heaven as we boarded a chair-lift, my mind of course on skiing. The luging was similar to alpine-sliding for those of you familiar with that at Attitash Mountain, but 8 million times better. The track did not confine you from left to right and it had insane drops and turns. The speed demon in me was on cloud nine. The pictures from there you can barely see Becca and Anya on the chairlift because they are so dwarfed by the scenery around them: breathtaking. The next pic is of Becca (from Brooklyn remember, folks…the girl doesn’t drive!) but she seems to be taking to luging at high speeds quite well. We then got a great lunch at a Thai restaurant in town and shopped around to be flabbergasted by how expensive outdoor equipment is. Toto—I don’t think I’m at REI with an employee discount anymore. We’re talking $35 Nalgene bottles! Even with the conversion that’s still like $25!!! The inner children came out in us when we went strolling through the Queenstown gardens. There was an awesome swingset and then… an ICE RINK! We had such a blast in this town!
As always, our time in locations was cut a bit short because we needed to press on to our next destination. We drove to a lake just outside of the city of Dunedin. When we all got out of the RVs, we looked up at the sky and saw more stars than we’ve seen since we’ve been in NZ: gorgeous. We woke up the next morning to waterfront property (can’t beat that!) and the fog rising off the water. We were only about 20 minutes from Dunedin so we drove into the city, parked, and met my friend, Whalley for breakfast. Whalley attended Holderness (for those non-Academy kids reading this) and is studying at the University of Otago. After a great breakfast, we went to a brewery tour of the Speight’s brewery (very popular and famous beer down here). After getting the whole tour, our guide John provides each person with a glass and lets us loose on the taps. They even have a beer that tastes like CHOCOLATE! We all then went our separates ways to explore. The city is very Scottish in its heritage so I was forced to stop in a Scottish shop to purchase a good bagpiping CD. Whalley then showed me where he’s been living and his school down here. He also lives near botanical gardens so we hiked up to them and also saw a whole bunch of birds that live in a zoo-like thing for birds. I’m sure there’s a word for this, but it escapes me at the moment. A number of the birds even spoke, and Whalley managed to strike up a conversation with one. When we all met back at the RVs, the group headed off to the Otago Peninsula and Whalley headed back to his apartment. At the end of the Peninsula (the second most ridiculous road that we drove on…very narrow, windy, and drops off right into the harbor without a guardrail) is a whole penguin colony. Well, we got there, and they had apparently decided to hide from us, so we were left to enjoy the rocky coastline (see the pic) and lighthouse. We then drove back down the peninsula and hit the road heading north toward skiing!
Since we ended up crashing (in both meanings of the word, Erik hit a fence with the side of the RV and ripped off some pieces of metal…that’s why we got the full-coverage insurance, kids!) at the foot of the Mt. Hutt access road, we were close to our destination. This was by far the craziest road I have ever been on. It was gravel and ascended into the most amazing mountain view you can imagine. As we gained elevation we also had to be wary of the fact that the gravel road dropped off all the way down to the valley on BOTH sides of the road. I thought roads like this only existed in fairy tales with dragons at the end of them. Well, the road is 16km long and luckily there was no snow on it. I can’t even imagine it if there had been any snow to contend with. I geared up at the mountain and took a few runs which were worth it for the view (and a few great pics) but the snow was awful. This is apparently the worst snow season in the history of New Zealand…figures. I then lent my gear (and jacket w/ ticket) to Rusty to take a few runs. Fearing for the safety of my skis we all decided to relax a bit, shop at the gift shop and hit the road for Christchurh.
The drive to Christchurch was wonderful—sunny and warm. We even stopped to try to hug sheep, but they would only run away from us. It was truly devastating. We made it all the way back to Christchurch and ended up at an RV camp. We spent some quality time here showering (number 2) of the trip, packing, cleaning out the RVs, and eating all of the remaining food. We really should have rationed it better over the course of the trip, but we had an absolute feast. After some much needed downtime and playtime on the jungle gym on the site (see the pic), we all headed into the city for dinner. We had dinner reservations at this restaurant “Santorini” that we had seen when we were in Christchurch before. Naturally, I insisted that we go because I had been craving Greek food. We all went to Dux deLux again first and watched some Rugby on TV and enjoyed their tasty homebrews again. We then trotted off to the restaurant and were absolutely unprepared for what we found. Everyone enjoyed cocktails with ouzo and then ordered gigantic meals. I had the saganaki, mousaka, and baklava (those are there strictly for making the Greece trip friends a little jealous!). Each table there was a large group (we were actually one of the smallest with 8 people) most had 20-30 people. Then, the dancing and music started. A live bouzouki band came on (traditional greek music) and the bar tender started teaching people how to do the traditional dances. Pretty soon, most of the restaurant was on their feet, and being led throughout the restaurant, kitchen, and outdoors while dancing. This went on for quite some time and then was followed by the Macarena and a limbo competition. The limbo competition was unbelievable. The two finalists were the bartender (lanky and maybe 6’2”) and a waitress (dancer’s physique and maybe 5’6”). They both were able to do the limbo with the bar MAYBE 8 inches off of the ground. Positively baffling! After spending many hours at the restaurant, we headed back to our campsite having enjoyed the best possible send off party imaginable! The next morning we met the rest of the group back at the airport and boarded a plane destined for Auckland.
7 days in the South Island, 6 days in an RV, 2,250kilometers driven, and 1 amazing vacation!
Do you understand why this took me soo long to write?